Saturday, July 31, 2004

The Atlantic Ocean

8 miles


The Atlantic Ocean! We woke up this morning at a campground by the sea. Is this really camping? Clotheslines are not allowed. Garbage is picked up at 9 am from your campsite. Newspapers are delivered to your campsite in the morning.

Today we rode from Rockport to Camden Hills State Park.On the way we stopped at a cheese maker place where we were informed that warm slimy cheese tastes better than refrigerated cheese. We’ve been cheese connoisseurs this whole trip and didn’t know it.

In Camden we did some window shopping and ordered our first lobster. They are soft shelled lobsters right now, which are supposed to be sweeter and easier to crack. I think the claw part tasted the best. Mac did all of the cracking. It was an experience, but next time he’s going to order a lobster roll.

Friday, July 30, 2004

Ocean Breeze

58 miles


When we’re on top of the hills I can feel the breeze from the Atlantic Ocean. (Mac doesn’t believe me.) A swarm of insects followed us for awhile. We would lose them going downhill, but they would be instantly around us again going uphill. It made me a little nervous, but they didn’t bite/sting.





Starting in Vermont, there were small uniform road signs for businesses. They continued into New Hampshire and Maine. I think maybe billboards and large business signs are not allowed, so they have these road signs instead. I think it’s functional and non-obtrusive. Very hot today.

A guy told me his cousin was visiting Bar Harbor and his motel room was half price and he bought three ball caps for $10.

“Isn’t this the tourist season?” I asked.

"Yeah, but the weather’s been lousy so no one is there."

We’ll be there soon enough to see what its really like.

Thursday, July 29, 2004

Farm Store Lunch

68 miles


Long day on the bike. Farm store. Freshly baked wheat bread with goat cheese, strawberry jelly, and jerky for lunch. Yummy. KOA campground outside of Litchfield.

Wednesday, July 28, 2004

Maine!

31 miles



Maine! Our last state line. We may not be climbing much in elevation, but the hills are steep. The back roads have sand shoulders and are not in very good shape. Camp in South Waterford. Spent all afternoon riding through trees and then slept in a resident campground with several radios blaring and loud people.

Tuesday, July 27, 2004

Bear Damage and Kancamagus Pass

30 miles

At the beginning of our trip, I was in denial that we would need to hang our food. It’s not like we’re backpacking in the wilderness. They’ll have bear lockers at developed campgrounds where there’s bears, right? We found that hanging food on a clothesline protects from raccoons and chipmunks.

When we got into bear country, Mac started hanging the food higher. The “experts” say the food should be 10 feet from the ground and 4 feet from the tree trunk. This is not an easy task. First you have to find a branch that’s the right height and strong enough. Then you have to tie a rock to a long piece of rope, throw the rock over the branch, tie the food to one end of the rope and pull the food up. Mac’s been doing a good job, but sometimes things just aren’t quite right. Maybe it was because the rope is worn, maybe it was the extra weight of the cantaloupe, or maybe the stars were just misaligned. Last night while Mac was trying to hang the food/cooking equipment bags, the rope broke three times and the bags came crashing down on rocks (and Mac’s head once!). 

I took the bags to the camp host and asked if he could store them somewhere for the night. The camp host said ordinarily he would lock them in the wood shed but he was leaving for the night and wouldn’t be back in the morning. He was also having a small crisis because his dog somehow ran through the screen of his RV. He gave me some nylon twine.

I returned to camp with the twine and bags. But it was dark by now and the strength of the twine was questionable. So I approached someone getting stuff from his SUV.  Jenny explained the situation and asked if she could store her bags in his vehicle for the night. He seemed reluctant but finally said, “I guess that would be OK.” In the morning we slept in, listened to the radio, read, stretched, and put the tent away, but the guy with the SUV was still sleeping. We were STARVING! I was wondering how I picked the last person in the entire campground to wake up. He finally emerged from his tent after 11am. We devoured the cantaloupe and Fig Newtons and all was well.


Damage from the bags falling on rocks included one spilled yogurt, one bruised but intact cantaloupe, two cracked spice containers, one cracked Tupperware, and one bent but functional frying pan.


Today we climbed Kancamagus Pass (elevation 2,855 feet). In less than 2 hours, we rode 8 miles and climbed about 1,900 feet. You know you’re going slow when the flies land on you while you are riding. I felt like wildlife as all the tourists stared at us from their vehicles. The climb was followed by 22 miles of downhill to Conway, where we are spending the night at a hostel. This was our largest and last major climb. Most of Maine is rolling ups and downs.

Monday, July 26, 2004

White Mountains

45 miles




White Mountains. Our dérailleur is a little bent, but Mac figured out how to make it work. Uphill, mostly gradual. Sometimes it seems like an optical illusion. Forest Service Campground right next to a stream.

Sunday, July 25, 2004

Day Off in New Hampshire



Lots of sleeping. We’ve been bicycling for a month now. We’ve been mostly sleeping in our tent since June 9th. We’ll be ready to settle in one place for awhile by the time we reach Bar Harbor, which will be soon. I thought we would be riding more miles per day than we are. I’m certainly not disappointed in what we’ve accomplished, just surprised at what it feels like to ride every day. The weather, weight of gear, setting up/taking down camp, grocery shopping in unfamiliar stores and cooking, all take a significant amount of energy.

Mac and I have been getting along wonderfully, especially considering how much time we’re spending together and all of the decision making over the past few months. We’re learning how to solve conflicts without getting angry/upset.

Saturday, July 24, 2004

Pick Your Own Blueberries

25 miles

Slept in. Zella and Stephen took us out to breakfast. They will go in a different direction today because they are going to Portland, Maine. We will visit them when we’re all back in Ohio. Perfect weather today, sunny and cool. More climbing. Not as much as yesterday, but we’re tired. Lots of bicyclists in Vermont.


Crossed the Connecticut River into New Hampshire.


Pick your own blueberries. They let the bears and birds eat as many as they want and there were still plenty for us. Beautiful old plants.

Green Pastures Campground in Orford. Live blue grass band at the campground.

Friday, July 23, 2004

Middleburg Pass in the Green Mountains

50 miles


Climbed Middleburg pass in the Green Mountains. Used our granny gear and chugged away to the top. The drum brake is great for long downhills. Stopped for breakfast and it immediately started pouring rain. Zella and Stephen showed up in their neon rain gear. Still raining and still hungry, so we ordered another plate of food.


Continued to Sharon and checked in to a motel. This is the first day it has rained on us all day. We prefer the rain more than heat. Dinner with Stephen and Zella. Mac made a maple syrup pastry thing served with ice cream for dessert.

Thursday, July 22, 2004

Ticonderoga Ferry to Vermont

42 miles


New sore muscles from hill climbing. Vermont immediately feels different from New York: dairy cows, clover fields, large mowing machines, and Subarus. Left early in the morning but already feels hot by 9:30 am.


This morning we took the Ticonderoga Ferry across Lake Champlain. One of the guys on the ferry told us a couple with a tandem and a trailer were on the ferry about seven minutes ago. We assumed they were the Ohio couple with a Bob trailer that we met on our first day. In a little while, we saw them at the top of a hill. As we got closer, Mac said, “they have a Burley trailer, not a Bob!” It was a different couple, but they're also from Ohio (Dayton area) and left home about the same time we did.


Long lunch in Middleburg with our new friends, Stephen & Zella.

Decided to sleep in a hotel. I was checking on prices and a guy in a beat up Subaru with a kayak on top stopped and invited Mac to use his shower and camp in his backyard. We took up his offer and tried his “Vermont Sardines” - little trout he caught from the river behind his house.

Wednesday, July 21, 2004

Long Downhill on a Smooth Road

37 miles

Met a San Franciscan couple travelling on Rivendell Atlantis bikes. They started riding in Chicago and their destination is Prince Edwards Island. Buffalo burgers and swiss chard from Adirondack Buffalo Co.

Max Speed: 51 mph

Long downhill on a smooth road. Hot weather. Camped at Paradox Lake.

Tuesday, July 20, 2004

Adirondack Museum

30 miles








Spent several hours at the Adirondack Museum. Canoes, motorboats, horse buggies, logging, mining, recreation, preservation.

Met four guys that live on the coast of Maine. They took a four day Greyhound bus to Astoria, Oregon and are on their way back home by bicycle. There’s a 5th member of the group that we met yesterday. He’s trying to get back early for a wedding.


Camped on the edge of Harris Lake. No motorboats, just canoes and kayaks. Watched the lake change as it turned from light to dark. Lots of noise during the night. I think owls were calling to each other. Listening for bears trying to reach the food tied high in a tree.

Monday, July 19, 2004

Blue Mountain Lake in Adirondacks

44 miles


Blue Mountain Lake. Camped in the yard of an Inn. Mac read the Sunday New York Times while I went swimming. Canoeing in the evening. Beautiful clouds. The weather in the Adirondacks is temperamental.

Sunday, July 18, 2004

Day Off in the Adirondocks




Craft fair, Pedals & Petals, forestry exhibit. Time for Jessica and Tracey to leave.

Saturday, July 17, 2004

Camping with Jessica

30 miles


Gary and Betsy made a hearty buckwheat pancake breakfast. Gary rode with us to Booneville and showed us the alternate less traffic route. Downhill to Booneville and uphill to the Adirondack State Park.


Jessica and her sister-in-law Tracey honked as they passed us. We had agreed to meet at the Singing Waters Campground, a little east of Thendora. Jessica brought us hamburgers, strawberry rhubarb pie, our favorite kind of soap, and all kinds of other treats. We did some shopping in Old Forge and watched a movie. It was fun to find out what Jessica, Pat, and Sequoia have been up to.

Friday, July 16, 2004

Looking for a Place to Sleep

43 miles

Morning rain inspired sleeping in late. Friday fish fry at small cafe in Redfield, New York. We were the only non-local customers and had to tell our story. Yummy homemade style food.

Stopped in West Layden to find a place to sleep. Tried calling the B&B but no answer. Owners of a camping area are out of town for the weekend. So we ate dinner outside of the market planning to try the B&B one more time and then go on to Booneville if there was no answer.


Gary and Betsy talked to us at the market and invited us to stay at their house. They live in a large historic farmhouse. It was just what we needed. A long hot bath, laundry, homemade cinnamon rolls, and a bed.


We helped them sort a large box of seed packets and discussed gardens, food storage, hunting, and other various topics.

Thursday, July 15, 2004

Ride and Eat

41 miles


There’s no shortage of fruit/vegetable stands and little country markets. Cherries, blueberries, sweet corn, green beans, summer squash, homemade cookies and muffins, tart cherry salsa, black raspberries, and more cherries. That’s one of the reasons we’re riding, so we can eat more.

Today someone told me this stormy weather is unusual for summer. “We haven’t had so much rain since the summer of ‘92 (or was it ‘98?)” It rained hard last night and a little bit while we were riding today. Not so bad. My clothes may start growing something if they stay damp for a few more days.

Tonight we’re at Selkirk State Park, New York. You get to see how families interact with each other in campgrounds. No walls.

Wednesday, July 14, 2004

Fair Haven State Park, New York

29 miles




Thunderstorms. Greasy spoon breakfast to wait for it to stop raining so hard. Fair Haven State Park, New York. Went to sleep very early. Tired.

Tuesday, July 13, 2004

Hills Are More Interesting

47 miles

Last night we camped with the Cycle the Erie Canal Tour (CEC). Camped on the Nazareth College lawn in Pittsford, NY. We are the center of attention, people keep asking us all kinds of questions. I think we've talked to about 200 of the 400+ CEC riders. Many of them were impressed with what we are doing. Others told us about the trips they have taken.

Skipped breakfast this morning, rode about 15 miles, and then stopped to make pancakes.




Saw a lock on the Erie Canal used to raise/lower boats from one level to another.

Left the CEC group and the flat riding along the Erie Canal behind as we headed north out of Palmyra towards Lake Ontario.



Lots of orchards and roadside fruit/veggie stands.

I've decided I like riding through slightly hilly areas more than flat areas. It's more interesting. Along the canal, we stayed in the same gear going 14.7 mph, never got to stand up and coast down a hill, or down shift and grunt up one. Maybe my opinion about hills will change as we ride into the Adirondacks.

Monday, July 12, 2004

Erie Canal

55 miles


Camped last night for free with the Cycle the Erie Canal tour and snuck into their shower truck (with permission).


Riding with all these people is strange. They had a rest stop in Holley; we went on to Brockport for lunch. Looks like rain again soon. I am concerned the trail will get muddy.

I am just realizing how much of our time and energy we devote to finding and cooking our food. Finding a store, reading all the bread and yogurt labels, planning the next couple of meals, packing the food on the bike, talking to people, and getting back on the road can take a couple of hours. It's nice to have a break.

The grocery store in Brockport had Red, White, and Blue pickled hardboiled eggs. I got some of the red ones made with beets and jalapeños, but Jenny won’t eat them. We found a really good brand of full fat chocolate milk that Jenny has been chugging.



The bike is running really smooth, though we are having a hard time maintaining our usual standards of drivetrain cleanliness. The canalway trail is dusty enough to get the bike dirty, but not a breathing annoyance at all. I want to clean the chains and gears again before we go up into the Adirondacks.

Sunday, July 11, 2004

Canada-U.S. Border Crossing

45 miles

Today is the first day I got on the bike in the morning and didn’t feel sore. The Niagara Falls trip was a vacation from our vacation. We almost got in trouble when we crossed the Canada-U.S. Border. We came into Canada on the Peace Bridge and there was a special pedestrian trail and customs office. We assumed it would be the same on all the bridges.

Returning to the U.S., cars were backed up across the entire bridge. There was a sidewalk on the side of the bridge. We didn’t see how to get on the sidewalk, so we hoisted the bike over the guardrail. When we reached the other side of the bridge, there was a locked gate across the sidewalk. A customs person walked towards us and said we had to go over the guardrail. This was not an easy task, because the sidewalk is lower than the road. The customs woman helped us.

The guy who looks at your ID and lets you go through or not told us we were supposed to wait in line like everyone else. But he let us through. We would have had carbon monoxide poisoning from waiting on a bridge with idling cars for a couple of hours.


In Lockport we got on the Erie Canal Trail.


No motorized vehicles. Flat, slightly downhill even since we’re following the direction of the water flow. The trail surface is compacted rock. Our bike is getting dirty but it’s a smooth ride.


Some teenagers asked us if we were part of the bicycle group. No, we said, what group? They told us a big group had gone by, all wearing wristbands, and they are camping at a school in Medina tonight. What was a big group? 20? 100?

We followed handmade signs to Medina elementary school where 437 people were camped for a fully supported tour from Buffalo to Albany called “Cycle the Erie Canal”. They are going about 50 miles a day. Trucks haul their gear, meals and rest stops are catered; and there are speakers, concerts, and other activities along the way. Lots of older people, children, tandems, and recumbents. We got some stares with all the bags on our bike. After seeing only two other touring bikes in last 700 miles, it's strange to ride in a pack of 400+.

Saturday, July 10, 2004

Day Off in Niagara Falls




Whirlpool. Botanical gardens. Hydroelectric plant tour. People mover. “Journey Behind the Falls.” Rainbows at the falls. Indian food. Clifton Hill at night.

The Niagara is very complex. I’m not sure how to explain it. The myths of Native Americans, the history of dare devil stunts, the accidents, the engineering of the hydroelectric plants and the amount of energy produced, the geology and erosion, the tourism and the amusements, tourists from all over the world.




Journey Behind the Falls was a tour that takes you to the base of the falls and through a tunnel so you can see behind the falls. It was an amazing experience. I felt like the falls should be an experience of natural beauty, but it wasn’t for me. For whatever reason, my definition of nature means there’s not many other people around. Even the falls couldn’t drown out the noise of the crowds of people.




It also seems ironic to me that the falls are controlled by humans. The international dam controls how much water goes over the falls, and how much water is diverted to the hydroelectric plants. Just enough water is allowed over the falls so that it’s still impressive to tourists, but erosion and spray is minimized and power is produced. But humans don’t have complete control. Eventually the falls will erode away. Water is powerful.